The old city gates, adorned with the two-headed eagle symbolizing the city.
The stage of Club Palač, the club that launched many acts from the Ri-rock and novi val era.
I had a nice meeting with the faculty of the Center for Croatistika at the University of Rijeka yesterday to learn about what opportunities there might be for collaboration. Before that, however, I was treated to an all-encompassing walk through the main square, through the walled old town, past the ornate Italianate market pavilions and the national theater, and up to the castle ruins. Rijeka is a remarkable city, small but full of oddities. It has its own leaning tower, for example. It has an Italian minority that either also speaks Italian, or a Venetian dialect that is a mix of Italian and Croatian persisting since the days when it was a Venetian state. The arid rocky white hills in the region are typical of the Adriatic coast that stretches from here down into Dalmatia. Olive trees, producing the uniquely spicy olive oil this region is known for, are planted in groves everywhere.
One of the Rijeka market pavilions.
I learned that there are jackals in this region, and on the island of Krk where I am staying. I learned that the snuffing noises I hear in the woods are probably wild boar.
A tower at the ruins of the Rijeka castle.
The view of Rijeka from the castle, with the Riječina river visible in the bottom left.
Roman ruins in the center of the old town.
Rijeka’s own leaning tower, the kosi toranj.
Today I travel to the capital, Zagreb, leaving the Adriatic coast behind. I am nearly halfway through my travels.